Projects · Türkiye · March - April 2024
Istanbul
The Sublime Metropolis
Istanbul is a city of many names: Lygos, Byzantium, and Constantinople to name a few. Having been continuously inhabited since the 7th century B.C., Istanbul has been the capital of three major empires over the course of histroy: the Romans, the Byzantines, and the Ottomans. Situated across the edges of Europe and Asia, and now home to the Turks, its streets pulse with a wild and vibrant beat - one formed from centuries of being at the center of where Eastern and Western civilization converge.
Tap any photo to enlarge it. Use the arrows or swipe to move through the whole gallery.
If one district could represent the heart of ancient Istanbul, it is undoubtedly the district of Fatih. Today, Fatih covers much of the terrority of "Old Istanbul" - the impregnable, peninsular city bordered by strong walls and mighty waterways. Fatih was the center of governance for the Romans, Byzantines, and Ottomans, and is home to wonderous landmarks like the Hagia Sophia, beautiful vistas of the Bosphorus, and a sprawling labyrinth of multi-storied, victorian-era Ottoman buildings.
Kadıköy is a district on the Asian side of Istanbul. Formerly known as Chalcedon in antiquity, it frequently changed hands over the centuries as Persians, Bithynians, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, Crusaders, and Turks passed through the area. Kadıköy is now Istanbul's most liberal neighborhood, and its crowded streets and sprawling cafes are packed with Istanbul's young artists, musicians, and students.
Moda is a small neighborhood on the southern shore of Kadıköy. Its quiet and serene streets, which are covered by canopies of verdant trees, serve as a reprieve from the dense crowds and busy cafes of Kadıköy's center. As one walks southward past Moda's many high-end apartments, the sounds of motors begin to fade away, and one is quickly left with one's thoughts, the squaks of seagulls, and gorgeous views of the Sea of Marmara.
The Bosphorus is Istanbul's most defining geographical feature: A massive strait that bisects the city into two halves. Bosphorus means "cattle passage" in Latin, and is a reference to the Greek mythological story of Io, who was transformed into a cow and condemned to wander the Earth until she crossed the Bosphorus. This vital waterway has been fought over for centuries, and is of unparalleled strategic and economical importance to both Istanbul and the nations surrounding Turkey.
Eminönü sits at the location of the oldest part of Istanbul. Positioned at the southern shore of the Golden Horn, Eminönü has served as the city's oldest port and hub of trade. The district is home to many sights, like the Grand Bazaar, which served as the Westernmost terminus of the Silk Road. Eminönü's countless ferry docks, floating tea shops, and endless rows of merchants make it one of Istanbul's busiest and most exotic districts.
During the days of Constantinople, the Galata district came under Genoese rule as one of their colonies. But after the fall of the Byzantines, the Turks gradually transformed the district into the financial hub of their new Ottoman empire - all built around the famous Genoese Tower that once served as the primary stronghold of the district. Remnants of Galata's financial history still stand, as massive, victorian-era banks made of chisled stone still line the hilly streets.
Though Fatih represented the heart of Old Istanbul, times have changed. Now, Taksim is regarded as the center of Istanbul commerically, economically, and culturally. Just north of the Galata district, Taksim boasts many similar features to its southern neighbor, like its sprawling grid of Ottoman-era imperial buildings. However, Taksim has cultivated its own kind of Turkish identity - one that flirts with both moderntiy and the nation's past.